Archive for October, 2009

Distracted by life

No training yesterday. Gorm and I had a jam session on guitar with a couple of cold ones and some good food. It was a lot of fun, and a nice respite from the isolation of training. We’re not really good, so we limit ourselves to 3 chord songs but that’s not important.We rocked Knocking on heavens door though. Good times.

Today my fingertips are super sore from playing on steel strings for several hours yesterday after god knows how long. Also had a huge nap after work today. Totally knackered after a little less sleep than I needed last night. Will venture out with Dante in a while and do some stretching and antagonist work after. Then off to bed again to try to be ready for work tomorrow morning. 7 day work weeks are rough…


Back on track

Went for a run and did a long stretching and antagonist session yesterday. Felt really good to be back on track with training again, and moving forward. I slept like the dead for the second night in a row after several sleepless nights since friday. Too tired to post, so I went straight to bed after training. Postponed it till today.

Today I will go look at a rock near where I live to see if it can be climbed. I hope it is solid and difficult.

Now it’s off to work.

Blue weekend

My elbow injuries seem worse than I first thought, so I will likely be out of climbing commission for 2-4 weeks instead of one. I got really bummed out by this, and did nothing all weekend.

Good news is, I’m starting to get over it, and did some weight training today, and have some running and antagonist training scheduled for tomorrow. I just have to fight through this slump in motivation, get fit to climb again and move on.

Gorm and I talked some more about our climbing trip for February, and that picked up my spirits as well. I am determined to overcome.

More hard lessons

Towards the end of my bouldering session on Wednesday I started to feel a slight ache in my elbows, and today it turned into a proper pain. So I called it quits.

This was not entirely unexpected, since I only started climbing 4-5 months ago, and I have gotten into a pretty intensive program recently. It is well known that the tendons take longer than muscles to adapt to new demands, and the elbows along with shoulders are a problem area for many climbers. I was hoping to avoid it, but didn’t really expect to be that fortunate. Part of the plan behind this intensive start is to explore the limits of my body and adapt to stay within them. So it is a week or so of rest from climbing on the books now, then I will do a test session, and if it is ok, I will go on with 3 sessions per week, with rest days between every session. If it is not ok, I will take another week off. But I feel I am on the ball and responding quickly to my body’s message, so I hope one week will be enough.

Going forward now, the plan is to work the antagonists in my under arms every day, and substitute the climbing sessions with weight training. Focusing on triceps, chest and shoulders, and avoiding everything along the lines of biceps and pull down exercises. I’m sure there are some push ups and sit ups as well in there, but haven’t planned it out in detail yet. Running will continue on schedule.

On the bright side, this will free up time to pump some iron again. I kinda missed that.

I must admit I was pretty bummed out on the way back home today, but as the pain subsided, my mood improved. And now I refuse to let this put a damper on my spirits. There is just too much improvement to celebrate and motivate me to continue to train hard despite not being able to climb for a little while. I’m getting to be in the best shape of my life, and I feel stronger, fitter and lighter than I have for many, many years. Sky is the limit, and I will make sure to keep my head up and my eye on the prize.

Monster Thursday

At work. Finished off at 6.15 pm and got home a little after 7. No time for running, and I’m hitting the sack now to catch some z’s before climbing tomorrow.

Dreaming of Action Directe

Since I saw the Rich Simpson flick about Action Directe, I have been dreaming about it. Since the route is so short, I remember the holds and moves from the video, and see myself doing them. Over and over again. Such a nasty little route too, with the huge moves you have to do off one and two finger pockets. It is on my list now. Hehe. Simpson trained for 9 months before sending it. I think it might take me slightly longer. 😉

Bouldering today was ok. Got through it, did the routes I’m supposed to (white and green) and failed on the rest. But I did meet a very nice Danish girl who was nice enough to try to coach me through a couple of blue routes. Unfortunately I couldn’t execute , so no luck. I did feel pretty close on one of them. She breezed through them like nothing though, with absolutely beautiful technique. Graceful, like a ballet up the wall. And she had a totally cute smile too. Bummer she lives in Copenhagen and was just visiting. One time it was nice with people around…

Now it is time for a walk with Dante and some antagonist work after. Can’t really say I’m looking forward to more reverse wrist curls… But it’s what the doctor ordered. So get on with it.

Rough day

At work today. So I got to bouldering an hour later that I had planned, and the gym was packed with people. I prefer it when there are less people about, since waiting to get on problems is a little boring. But I got on with it, and had a decent session. Managed to top out a couple of problems that I had left unfinished on earlier sessions, and felt pretty good although I was a little tired from work.

Getting a little frustrated about not being able to do any blue problems (only white and green right now), since almost all the green problems are getting to be fairly straight forward. But all the blue problems I try are beyond me. I have decided to make completion of a blue problem the goal for Saturday. That gives me another couple of sessions to work on green, and Saturday is the best day to go all out since I don’t have work first, and will be fresh when I get to the gym.

It will be interesting to see how that goes. I think I should be able to find one that suits me, but who knows. Might be a little early days to get frustrated with progress, but I can’t really help it. I guess I will just have to pick one and work on it until it sticks. Test of character and determination. I feel pretty well stocked on both so I should be fine.

No overtime tomorrow (fingers crossed), and that promises an even better session.