Archive for January, 2012

Finally over it

After I got home from my trip I have gone through 4 of the 5 stages of grief. Denial, anger, depression and finally in the last few days, acceptance. It has taken a good month, but I feel ready to get back on the program. And looking forward to epic adventures in 2012 as well.

I have accepted that the 5 year plan is probably not as useful anymore. Time is out and I am not really making great progress either. There are several reasons for this, and chief among them are probably my starting point (not skill but physical condition), lack of year round focus and my latest discovery: Variety is the spice of life.

Variety is the spice of life. And climbing. My trip has thought me that while I really do enjoy good sport climbing, I equally enjoy good trad climbing. And perhaps what I like the most are long and exposed trad routes. Not necessarily the most challenging technically, but those that challenge my head, my resolve, my stamina and reward me with pride of accomplishment in a more profound way than sticking a few hard moves ever will. And then there are the views and being close to nature.

I will still climb a lot of sport. I have several destinations in mind for the future that I am very excited about. Like the Red River Gorge, Kalymnos and a return to the Homestead and Queen Creek in Arizona. But 2012 will be epic for trad. A couple of months in Lofoten again, with the high point ( hopefully) being a free ascent of Sydpillaren on Stetind.

I will probably not improve a lot on my sports climbing in 2012, but I certainly aim to step it up several notches in the trad realm. So when spring comes, the snow goes, and Gorm returns from the frozen north, we will be climbing trad. Kolsås, Andersnatten and Nissedal will be thoroughly explored now that I have a big ole rack for anything but the widest stuff. Perhaps Nigel will bring some wicked big cams along when he arrives from Canada? I hope so.

But for now I am unemployed and penniless and the focus will be getting in as good a shape as I can while looking for a job. The snow has arrived so skiing will be a great cardio source, and I still have my gym membership, so there will be strength straining as well. Everything is in place for another great winter of physical improvement. And when spring arrives I will translate that into better performance on the wall.

So there it is. I might have to change the name of the blog, but it will still be about my journey towards my very own limits in climbing. A climbers journey towards realization is still accurate in that sense.