Obviously the plans for 2011 will largely be determined by the progress made in 2010, and wether or not I reach my goals of 5.12 as scheduled.

However I have started making plans for a 3 month climbing trip that will extend my outdoor season by basically the same amount of time. This trip will take me through a variety of climbing areas, giving me a lot of diverse climbing conditions to face. Different types of rock, different weather, and different types of climbing, with everything from bouldering to long multi pitch routes. It will be a great way to really make progress with regular climbing for a prolonged period. I will break 5.13 while I am there. I will it so.

As for training I will not be making any detailed plans until 2010 season is over. But there will probably be a decent amount of work on finger and upper body strength, and a lot of work on technique. Maybe I can find a mentor?

Edit 4th May, 2011
Everyone who has been reading this blog knows by now, that I did not crack 5.12 in 2010. I did not even break 5.11, all though I felt I was very close to a 5.11 slab breakthrough at the end of the season. So, The goal for this year is the same as last year. Bust through 5.12. It is still optimistic, but that’s just the way I roll, and I refuse to change that. If I did change it, I might as well close this blog down, because then how could I believe it is possible to complete my journey towards realization?

The way I am proposing to reach the fabled land of 5.12 is as follows.

I am currently dropping weight. Another 10-20 pounds should do the trick, depending on how much muscle I pack on in the same period. Seven sessions of cardio per week, as well as 4 sessions of strength training with a custom “climber strong” workout and one session of indoor bouldering is on the cards for May alone. It is called 28 Days of Hell. After May I will start the outdoor season and climb outdoors at least twice a week until the end of July. I will continue the cardio as long as necessary and the strength sessions all the way through July as well.

What happens after July you might ask. So glad you did. I am joining my Canadian friend Nigel for four and a half months of epic climbing from Squamish to Hueco Tanks. Stops in between include, but are not limited to: Smith Rock, Yosemite, Joshua Tree, Bishop and Red Rocks.

El Cap is calling us loud and clear, but we will probably not heed the call… This time anyway. Unless we get super fit and find ourself able to climb 5.9 cracks from dawn to dusk without getting cranky. Unlikely, but you never know…

Anyway, this trip means I will have an epic outdoor season lasting from June through mid December. And August through mid December will consist of nothing but climbing days, and rest days (some of them spent driving). How about them apples?

This trip is a once in a lifetime opportunity and I will seize it with both hands and squeeze all I can out of it. While resting properly and taking good care of the machine, obviously.


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