Archive for the 'Uncategorized' Category

Slow recovery

I was sick for 8 days. 8 days of diarrhea. The week from hell. Took everything out of me.


This Monday was the first “normal” day since I got back. Normal in quotation marks because I felt so weak. But I went to see my personal coach, and it was a really good session. Lifted my spirits significantly, and made me think in more empowering ways than had been the case the previous week.

Today is Saturday and I am still pretty weak. I go for long walks every day, 2-3 hours worth of walking. But it is slow. 50% slower than my normal walking pace. And it takes everything out of me. I am wondering when I will be ready to work out again. But the walks are lifting my spirits, the colors, the crisp autumn air, being out in nature, and moving my body without worrying about where the nearest toilet is located (an unspeakable relief).

At the start of every walk I am experiencing stitches in my right side. It is a worry because it seems unrelated to food and water intake, and occurs at low walking speeds. It gets better after a while, but never completely goes away, and is one of the factors hindering my progress in terms of walking pace. The only time it goes away is when I walk steep inclines late in the walk. So it seems to be related to the force of impact between feet and ground. And since slow walking does not generate much impact compared to running, it is a worry. I am hoping it is something related to my illness, and that it will get better as my body recovers.

During my 3 weeks in Thailand I felt nothing in my left knee. But as soon as I started walking again back home, the discomfort was back. Perhaps the lower temperatures has some sort of effect on my joints? I started using a knee support I found in a drawer from my meniscus problems in 2006 (that was in my right knee though, so unrelated), and it helps a lot. I will be using it on my walks for a while at least.

So, that is basically what is going on now. As for the tales from Thailand, I will be getting the pictures (not taken with my camera) next week. When that happens I will post the stories and thoughts about the trip. Until that day, then.


Blogging Nigel

My climbing partner Nigel has made a brand spanking new blog, and you can check it out right here.

In Canada!

Salt Spring Island, BC. Absolutely gorgeous place. Peaceful, beautiful and with some challenging conglomerate rock to climb. More to come, and pics too, but right now I will just say that I am super stoked to be here! It is on!

Interesting article in Rock and Ice

In this article, my weight loss is compared with athletes using steroids, and the author asks if it should be considered cheating…

Big trip getting a lot closer

I bought tickets and travel insurance. Leave August 3rd and return December 19th. My move is also in the last phase now, then all that remains (apart from lots of training and climbing) is to sell my car. I will try to do that as close to my departure as possible to make getting to and from different crags easier.

Getting excited now…

Qualified for the next round

I am one of 300 qualified for round 2 in the Mammut challenge. 150 will be selected to be part of the Peak Project.

Stetind is my choice of destination. Ascent in july 2012. 3 man team including me leaves 2 spots for someone else. Gorm and Nigel, are you up for it?

It will be hard, but beautiful. Man I hope I can get through!

Shit day at work, followed by awesome climbing!

Already tired when I started work today. Not a good sign…

But I got through it, bought some snacks and headed out to a crag called Mega. Steep and pumpy stuff, just what I need.

Got there well ahead of time and took a little nap before i made my way to the wall, and had a look-see before my climbing company arrived. They are much better climbers than me and felt a .10a was suitable for warmup. It’s about a full grade above my normal warmup, and on steep stuff to boot. I was a little nervous about that, but decided to give it my all, and just take the hangs I needed to avoid pumping out before I got started. I think the route is called “Hennes & Maur”. It was really hard, and really cool. But pumped I did get. Did it twice on toprope, and after it felt like I was all done.

Fortunately a good rest and I was ready to go again. I’m a little confused about what routes we did, because I think 2 of them are not in the topo. But I think the second one was a .10b. I toproped that too, and after 2 falls (one of them a pretty scary one because I almost touched ground) I managed to work out the crux and get on with it. After that it was pretty straightforward. But the crux moves are really, really awesome. I didn’t think I would be strong enough to pull the layback move required, but somehow I did. Sweetness!

Last route we did was somewhere between 5.9-5.10a (my guess since it is not in the topo). It felt really hard because I was super pumped by then, but the moves were not that difficult. One nervy bit, at least I figure it will be on lead, with an exposed traverse on slopers, but otherwise straight forward. It is a really cool route though, with some really nice moves.

All in all I had a blast climbing today, even though I did nothing on lead. When I go back, I will do some leading. But I need something easier for warmup… Best monday climbing ever! Perhaps the monday curse is broken? Or maybe it was just because I was toproping everything? I don’t know, and I don’t care. It felt awesome!